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Buying Your First
Table Saw
Believe it or not, just “any ole’ saw”
or the cheapest one are likely not your best bets for woodworking fun.
How easy the saw is to use, plus how versatile it is, will go a long way
in determining whether you become a successful “weekend warrior,” or
someone who may erroneously think it’s “just not for them.”
Many people just getting started with
woodworking don’t know enough about equipment. Since beginners don’t
know about equipment and how to match it to their needs, they can often
wind up with the wrong saw – and not enjoy using it.
So to help out, this page will give
you some information about the features to keep in mind as you go
shopping.
First: Saw Table Height
Many new saws come with stands to
place them at a “standard” height, and that equates to “one size fits
most.” And, if you’re “average” height to about 6” above or below
“average,” then the “standard” saw height will probably work fine for
you.
If you’re quite tall, then you’ll be
stooping each time you use the saw, and that can be uncomfortable – and
unsafe – for making numerous cuts. You may need a SAFE way to raise the
height of your saw. Keep in mind that DOESN’T mean a 2X4 under each leg.
It can, however, mean a platform (that doesn’t stick out past the
margins of the saw) that you can anchor your saw to. And you WILL need
to anchor it to use it safely.
If the opposite is true and you’re
shorter than average (as in my case) then you may need to make some safe
accommodations to be able to properly use your saw. You won’t know until
you set up the saw according to the manufacturer’s directions.
Once your saw is assembled, and
with the saw off, reach for the back edge of the table. If you can
reach it without leaning over the blade, then you should be able to use
your saw safely. If you can’t reach it without leaning over the blade,
then there are a couple of accommodations you can consider.
The first possible accommodation is to
forego the stand that came with your saw until you get more comfortable
using it. In that case, you’ll need to build a sturdy support for your
saw that’s shorter than the standard legs – but is stable enough to not
tip over. That last part of that sentence is critical, so let me repeat:
STABLE ENOUGH TO NOT TIP OVER.
My first table saw didn't come with a
stand, so I built a cabinet and anchored the saw to it. The cabinet had
a hole in the top to contain the sawdust and the table height was about
3" shorter than my current saw. That was the height at which I could
safely reach the back of the table without leaning over the blade.
Remember that you’ll be putting
pressure on your saw table as you feed stock, and you DON”T want to
knock over your saw – ESPECIALLY when it’s running. If you don’t think
you can build a stand safely, then don’t – consider a second option:
building a platform for you, instead. Just make sure that it’s
large enough for you to have a stable stance when feeding the stock into
your saw.
If you don’t or can't use either accommodation
and choose to use the saw as-is, then you’ll need to adjust your stock
feeding techniques to keep you and your clothes away from the blade.
Second: Fence Alignment
Having the fence parallel to the blade
is CRITICAL for accurate cutting, and many saws have too much
variability in the way their fence aligns to the blade. In short, you
want a fence that aligns perfectly to the blade each time you lock it
down.
There are saws out there that claim to
have a self-aligning fence, but in practical use they really don’t. To
check it, lock the fence at a specific distance, then, WITH YOUR SAW OFF
and using a RULER – not a tape measure – measure the distance from the
fence to the blade at the front and back of the blade.
Make sure, when you measure, that you
do it this specific way: Look closely at your blade. If it’s
carbide-tipped you’ll see that the teeth alternately lean to the right
and left of the blade. Measure from a tooth that leans toward the fence.
Then, rotate the blade back and measure from the same tooth to the fence
at the back of the blade. Ideally, all three measurements should match:
The reading on the indicator, the measurement at the front of the blade,
and the measurement at the back of the blade.
If they don’t match, then the saw will
need to be adjusted before it’s put to use.
Here are some pictures depicting
the process above.
Third: Table Size and Extensions
Generally, you want a larger table, or
work surface, on your saw rather than a smaller one. This supports your
workpiece better, and makes your cuts easier and more accurate.
However, the largest table surfaces
come with the cabinet-style belt drive saws – which are a fantastic
choice if your work space and budget permit getting one. Since much of
this information is for people just getting started – and who don’t have
a 2000 square-foot workshop – I’m going to focus on the smaller saws.
Since you will likely work on a
variety of projects, you may need to cut panels now and then. It’s
really difficult to make an accurate cut with a small table and no
extensions. Therefore, I HIGHLY recommend you get a saw with wings to
extend the table on both sides, as well as built-in outflow support.
That way you’ll be able to rip a full sheet in half if you need to.
Here's a
picture of the extensions on my table saw
Believe it or not, you can get saws in
the $200 range that have these features. My saw does, and I’ve included
pictures of the features I highlighted on this page. Remember – if you
get a saw with features you don’t use right away, those features will
still be there as your skill grows, and one day you’ll be glad you
planned ahead when making your purchase.
A couple
of other features I like: casters to make it easier to move and a dust
bag to contain some of the sawdust.
Looking to
buy a table saw? Check out the Delta Table saws available from Rockler.
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