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Blade Guard Pros
and Cons
The first point I’d like to make is
this: If you’ve never used a table saw, at the very least try to learn
to use it with the guard in place.
That’s because you need experience to
use a saw safely without safeguards – and even then accidents can
happen.
With that said, my personal preference
is to use my saw without the guard in place. I’m not suggesting or
recommending that you do the same. I’m only offering information about
my experiences, and you’ll need to make your own decision about it.
Here are some of the things that
guards are supposed to do:
1)
Keep the blade from
becoming exposed and injuring the operator either directly or by
entrapping clothing.
2)
Keep the sawn pieces
from kicking back with anti-kickback fingers attached to the guard.
3)
Keep the cut pieces from
binding the blade by keeping the kerf open.
These are all good things, and that’s
why, if you have NO experience, I think you should at least try
to use the guards at first.
Now here are a few reasons I don’t use
my saw’s guard:
1)
It makes it more
difficult to closely watch the cut. For me, there is too little view of
the point where the blade meets the wood, plus sawdust tends to
accumulate in the guard as you cut. It can get pretty close to cutting
blind, and that means you can’t make corrections to your cut if you need
to.
2)
I’ve had the
anti-kickback fingers bind the board I’m cutting and CAUSE a kickback.
3)
You can’t reposition
your stock once it’s under the anti-kickback fingers. They only allow
you to feed stock forward, so the board has to pass all the way through
once it gets to that point. And there have been times that I’ve needed
to alter my cut and re-feed stock after that point for various reasons
(mainly errors, of course!).
The anti- kickback
How the guard sits on the
The guard lifts as you feed
fingers
saw
the stock
Safety Without the Guard
If you decide to use your saw without
the guard, here are some safety suggestions that may help:
1)
Under NO Circumstances
allow your fingers to get closer than 2” to the blade. Further than this
is better, but this is a rock-bottom absolute minimum. That means you
need to use a pushstick for narrow cuts between the blade and the fence,
and you always need to feed from the wide side. If the waste side is
going to be too narrow, you may want to check the page on jigs for a
suggestion about how to deal with that.
2)
NEVER, as in NEVER EVER,
lean over your blade. This is an absolute, Just don’t do it. If the way
you’re feeding stock will lead to that, change your procedure, correct
any issues that may exist with your equipment, or use a jig.
3)
Stand to the side of the
blade when you’re feeding stock – NEVER in direct line. Anything that
breaks off could be fired back at you like a projectile, and I can tell
you from experience that it HURTS. Plus, it can do a lot more than leave
a bruise if you get hit in the eye or get hit with a sharp piece.
4)
Remember eye protection
when cutting, and ear protection is a good idea too. I have safety
glasses I wear over mine when I’m making cuts that have any chance of
throwing any loose pieces. I also have a set of corded earplugs I keep
in my workbench that I don’t wear as often as I should. You’ll want to
consider getting some and USING them since I can also tell you from
experience that hearing loss isn’t fun for you or the people around you.
Just keep in mind that the
manufacturer included the guard for your protection. You’re free to use
it or not, and that decision is entirely yours. Just remember that the
consequences are yours too. So, if you choose to leave them off, it’s
your responsibility to include extra safety precautions in your
procedures. That way, you’ll have a better chance of avoiding injuries
and keeping your fingers where they belong.
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